cluth repair

[Alex]

I have had a rupp for almost 20 years now (memories) and as long as I can remember the clutch has been screwed.

Once the motor had fired up the clutch becomes engaged and the bike wants to go forward. I've always compensated this with a little brake, but it's annoying not being able to get off the bike while it's running and having to squeeze the brake while pulling the rip chord.

Is this typical behaviour for a rupp...? I believe it's a centrifugal clutch and should only engage when throttle is applied. BTW I have played with idle speed over and over again to see if maybe my bike idled to quickly, but that wasn't it.

What could be wrong with my clutch? Engine is brand new??? What should I look to replace?

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Cheers
Alex

[T-Mack1]

Alex,
Sounds like your Torque Convertor is either too tightly adjusted or possibly dirty and not releasing. There is not much adjustment, but there should be approx 1/8" to 3/16" gap. See www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm for picture. It's about a third of the way down the page.

If it's too tight it grabs and slowly pulls you along. This is bad for belt life.

If the clutch is dirty it may not slide properly. If it does not release enough it also grabs.

The instructions I got with a new Comet clutch said to clean weekly. Sounds a little much but I guess it depends on how much you ride. At the minibike reunion this year, the mud made us clean daily. The instructions also said to use Dri-Lube. Not to use WD-40 or graphite. Petroleum based products gather dirt. Graphite is a little abrasive. I found the dri-lube at the hardware store. Use to be called silicon lube years ago. (Note: they now sell silicon lube with petroleum products in it to reduce price, try to avoid. I paid $7.49 a year ago.

t-mack

[T-Mack1]

Alex,
Forgot the simplest problem. The idle could be too high. Reduce idle speed first. It's the simplest and easiest to check.

Remember where you started when you start adjusting.

T-Mack