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Post by Panhead Howard on Oct 23, 2003 9:40:03 GMT -5
Hi all, I just got my son a mini bike that turns out to be a Rupp (B/W?) thats far from original. Briggs with a direct sprocket to sprocket drive set up(rear wheel installed backwards ???). I'd like to go to the orig. T/C set up and a H40 . Any help with a used TC-1 unit or info on later or aftermarket replacement. I'd consider a parts bike within a reasonable distance of Vt. Thanx in advance.
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Post by Brandt on Oct 26, 2003 9:26:14 GMT -5
there is a rear TC set up with jackshaft on ebay currently
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Post by Panhead Howard on Oct 29, 2003 8:17:07 GMT -5
Brandt, thanx for the lead. The problem is, I'm so new to this Rupp thing. I went to ebay and found two (rupp jackshafts) one was a nos unit with gears on both ends, the other was used and appeared to hane a pulley on the engine side. Uh!? I have scoured web photos but can only find bikes with covers saying TC-1 or pix of parts/project bikes with missing parts. Sooo... which is it (belt or chain) what should be on the engine, is it a (duel) pulley/sproket set up? Will anything other than the stock parts work, without unreversable modifications. The current Briggs/clutch/direct to rear sprocket set up will bearly pull this thing along? engine runs ok, can the clutch be slippin' that much..... I'd really like for my son to ride it abit before we get snowed in! Winter will be tear down time.... Help! Thanx
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Post by natpkg on Oct 30, 2003 3:53:45 GMT -5
well it appears somebody "re-engineered" your b/w with little respect for the performance of the bike. sorry to say you were correct in the rear wheel backwards thing. you have a project ahead of you, just where to start......
i hope they left the rear jackshaft mounting tabs at least geez! these will be needed for the rear set of pulleys that should be driven by a belt from the front sheaves or pully. yes it was a dual... the rear pulley connected to the jackshaft, sprocket to the opposite side as i picture your bike now in my mind.
parts are available on ebay at times, but you may be needing to scrounge components one at a time going that route.
this system works well when set up correctly giving the bike a nice range of variable gearing. hills should be no problem for even an adult rider actually.
you can redo yours with original style parts, or consider replacing with a comet torq-a-verter, pretty easy assuming you still have the ability of mounting that jackshaft back on the bike.
i have seen some use the type of comet that needs no jackshaft, it has an integral sprocket right on it, but this would require you to "drive" the rear wheel on the opposite side compared to the original configuration.
i hope this helps you with your project, i am sure others will have ideas as well, but TEXT
good luck ;D
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Post by natpkg on Oct 30, 2003 3:57:29 GMT -5
Don't let the black widow DIE! oops that was the missing text from last message...... sorry all.
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Post by Blackwidow on Oct 30, 2003 23:14:15 GMT -5
Howard, The TC-1 and torque converter(TC) are the same thing. The TC uses a belt of a pulley on the engine to a pulley(on left) on the jackshaft. Pulley spins the jackshaft which turns the jackshaft sprocket (on the right side of the bike) that runs a chain to the rear sprocket. The only chain on a 1970 and newer rupp with L head engine is to the rear wheel. The jackshafts on ebay with a centrifugal clutch of for 1969 and older models. You bike if a 70 or newer bike will have an angled motor plate. If 69 or older it will have a motor plate that is horizontal to the ground. The original TC setups can be expensive. There are a few Rupp suppliers who modify a current production "Comet" brand to fit and work on the 70 and newer Rupps. Check out the links at the top of the homepage for his link.
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Post by T-Mack1 on Nov 4, 2003 12:19:07 GMT -5
Horward,
I'm using the Comet TC Clutch with the Rupp driven pulley, because I don't have the original Rupp long output shaft engines. Have a R2 and a Scrambler (with a fat rear tire 4.00-10). The R2 is running a 5/8" belt. I need to keep an eye on keeping the clutch clean (sliding parts) because it's splined and dirt can cause the "shifting" to hesitate. The Scrambler has an eng w/1" output shaft. I'm running a 3/4" belt on it with a brand new clutch (only cost $50 w/warrantly!!). I had to put a washer/spacer on the Rupp driven pulley so that it would not close all the way (5/8" orig. verse the 3/4" needed).
Observation is that the 3/4" belt setup runs better & longer. The 5/8" seems to require cleaning more often. (The Comet instructions that came with the new clutch said clean weekly and use spray dry lube, no wd-40, graphite or oil). Found some at hardware store.
Next, Jackshaft. See my post on general board.
Tom M.
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Post by Brent on May 21, 2004 21:41:51 GMT -5
Can somebody give me the specs for a Roadster II TC belt?
Thanks in advance.
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Post by Edison Swartz on Jul 14, 2014 21:44:55 GMT -5
I am in major need of a Rupp Torque Converter. I need Rupp #15105 (Fixed Flange). I will pay $$$. I need it so bad. Any condition works! EMAIL ME @ ruppguy@yahoo.com or phone me @ 250 546 1926 Thanks to ANY REPLIES!
Edison
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